describing praia do rosa

one of the first questions people ask me as a californian living here is how i arrived in praia do rosa. i wanted to live in a small beach town where the rent is cheap and i would have all the time i need to write, draw and travel. the house i found on the internet, with its Hemmingway-treehouse appeal, invited me here and here i am.

praia do rosa is one of about 15 crescent-shaped beaches located on brazil's southern coast of santa catarina. it is known for its surf and whale watching. what most non-locals don't know is that its dirt roads and lit inns used to be covered so densely with bamboo, vines and brush that a machete was required to navigate through the barely beaten paths. women were sometimes spotted changing into their bathing suits in the haven of the folliage.

from the lush mountain wall that holds rosa in its arms, a vista spreads from southern santa catarina to florianopolis, the larger more chique island city to the north. before the mountain reaches the floor, two lagoons; one salt and one fresh water. behind the mountain is a valley where cattle graze on stickery fields of weeds surrounded by barbed-wire fences and dirt roads where stray dogs are heard barking at each other in bouts of machismo. this is where i live.

there is a bit of a war between locals and tourists. the locals show pride in knowing their way around, and only until you have won their affection will they show you, with more than just a nod, the shortcut to the beach. the local will know where to eat steak, fries, beans and rice (with a side of chili oil and packets of condiments) for only $5USD. they know who is in the water surfing and when, what day the whales will arrive, how many days the rain will stay, and about how many months it will take to pave the roads that have been washed out by that rain. they know who is new in town, who owns what property, where you are from, who is sleeping with who, what your addiction is, how many moles you have, etc...rosa maintains a small town mentality and a laid back beach vibe where everything is said to be done "tomorrow".

but rosa is a seasonal little village and in its winter months during peak season, its stores swell with tourists, on the streets, cars that blare brazilian reggae, hip hop and forró, a kind of polka-sounding music popular with the 16-35 yr. old crowd. the surf shops are open until past dark and restaurants and all night clubs spill with 20-something surfers sharing small glasses of beer. the smell of churrasco (bbq) , freshly baked bread and stray dogs become a mainstay. this growth proves that this small beach village is smarter and more entrepreneurial than it appears. even with the excitement, i am able to find the quiet to do all the writing i want.

i the privacy of my morning walk to the shore from the valley, through town and past horse-drawn carts and all night clubs blaring house music, i breathe in the salty humid air, letting it fill me, then let it go, releasing all judgements. doing this two or three times reminds me that even though i am 8000 miles away, i can still taste the sea air that reminds me of my california roots.